"...Would anyone agree that the
Stanley Metal Planes made today are very inferior to the Stanley
Metal Planes we now call vintage. Of particular note is the quality
of today's Plane Blades. They are much more difficult to
sharpen without burning the cutting edge."
Does the bear do his business in the
Is the Pope Catholic?
This, Stewart, is Porch Gospel.
Our Mantra. The Elixir that sustains us.
You would have a difficult time, I
think, finding "anyone" who would take the opposite position, if
this were put up for debate.
That said, I wonder about this
reference to burning the cutting edge of a plane blade, in
sharpening. The only way I can envision that happening is by
use of a motorized grinder, moving at speeds fast enough to heat the
blade in question to an undesirable temperature. Stock Stanley
irons, of whatever vintage, are so thin that the use of a high speed
grinder is unnecessary overkill. Many Galoots, myself
included, have used a geared hand powered grinder, with the speed
controlled by the operator.
I have reverted to ScarySharp in most
cases, unless there is a major chip that one must grind past.
Using 80-grit paper and a sharpening jig, I can usually reestablish
a proper bevel on the dullest Stanley-type plane blade in a few
minutes, then move on down a few grits to smooth out scratches (my
usual sequence is 120, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800), then dial up the
jig about one degree and hone with 1000 and 2000 grit.
Assuming the front half inch or so of
the back is already reasonably flat and smooth, I start working off
the wire edge with about 400 grit, then continue doing that with
whichever grit I'm using on the bevel at that moment, down through
This works for me - others have other
No burning of cutting edges.
not really a hand method zealot,
really. . .